First Goal Reached-Santiago Compostela

 

I can’t figure out how to get this thing to format correctly. Technology is not my strength. The pictures are not in any order, when I try to fix that, I screw everything up. 

Wednesday afternoon I pushed too hard. There was another mixup with the German boys, and then another Thursday, it appears I won’t see them again. The communication challenges were daunting. I walked too far, my right foot got sore, I finally stopped at a really nice hotel and had a great dinner, but it didn’t help my feet. I felt spoiled, soaked my feet, got up in the middle of the night without bothering anyone, did my backpack “explosion” and got that all organized again.  

I was worried about my right foot this morning. It wasn’t perfect, but it was functional.  Because I had such a big day Wednesday, I didn’t have far to go to get to Santiago Compostela this morning. It’s a good thing I didn’t have far to go, I was exceptionally slow. A few reasons for this exceptionally slow speed: 1)My foot hurt 2) the trail merged with many others, most notably the Primitivo and the major one, the Camino Francés. The onslaught of people was even worse than I’d been led to believe. I thought for sure I would run into someone I had hiked with before, so walked slow so I could check people out as they passed me. Hundreds passed me, I didn’t recognize one of them. I stopped at cafés and sat where I could watch pilgrims walk by. All day I never saw anyone I knew, and I saw a LOT of people. 3) I was walking slow to relish the moment.  I was just soaking in the enjoyment of knowing that I was going to make it, and appreciating the amazement of what I was seeing, and a part of. 

Then, from a park on a hill a couple of miles away, was the first glimpse of the Santiago Compostela. It was really cool. Lots of people around and enjoying the moment. 

I had an emotional moment there with placing a stone. Wow. 

Then on to Santiago Compostela. I ate, did a self guided tour through the chapel, sat in a pew and relaxed (I wasn’t rousted by a little girl this time) went down to the area where reportedly the remains of Saint James are, and just marveled at how big and amazing it all was. 

Then, I went and got my certificates for having completed the pilgrimage. That was a challenge. Have I mentioned I’m not good with technology. Add technology and language differences, and things get funny. I wasn’t about to give up. I was going to get that certificate no matter what. They eventually realized I couldn’t accomplish the needed tasks on my phone, and sent me to a kiosk. Then I waited in line to get to a reviewer who would check my Credencials to be sure I deserved the Certificate.  I had done everything correctly and actually received two Credentials, one for Ken Harris. The other for Dominum Canicum Harris. Apparently that’s my name in Latin. The counter on the display showed that almost 1700 people had got their certificate today. I believe it, there were a LOT of people there! There were way more in line when I left!

Sergio never got back in touch with me. I sat in the cathedral for quite a while just relaxing, looking at the immensity of it all, listening and watching the crowds, and just relaxing…and resting my feet. I was hoping to get a text back from him, but never did. My trigger point was 3:00pm. If I didn’t hear anything by then I was going to leave. 

I’m not a fan of cities, and, Santiago is too big for me. It’s an interesting place, just too many people. I looked for the nearest hostel far enough out of the city to make me feel comfortable, but close enough that I wouldn’t hurt my foot more. I found the perfect one, and it serves dinner in 15 minutes so I’m about done. 

Now I will be going west about three days to Finisterre. That will be the true end of the pilgrimage. Apparently, a person can get even another Certificate there. I’m not exactly sure what I’m going to do with these Certificates;)

It may take more than three days to get there. My speed is no longer up to the rest of me, it’s up to my feet. 

Midday Post

 I found a nice, relaxing restaurant to get a tuna sandwich. Also, it seems to have good internet:). I decided to do an extra post.

It’s warm today, for the first time in quite a while. I’m switching to shorts after lunch. I started off with UnderArmor and a puffy down jacket on. That lasted about 1/2 hour. 

The monastery last night was awesome. The monk, Lawrence, and I really hit it off well. I never pictured teasing a monk (because he was so young) or being teased (prostate humor) by a monk It seems that when a group hosts pilgrims for hundreds of years they work out all the kinks:). I can’t imagine how many tens of thousands, or more, pilgrims they have hosted over the centuries. I’m guessing the first pilgrims didn’t have USB ports, or WiFi.

I woke up at 6:00 and tried to be as quiet as possible when loading up my pack and heading out. When I headed out the door to the room, outside doing their packing, was Sergio and Aaron, my young German buddies.  This time I took my book to Sergio, pointing to the map where the trail forks, he signaled clearly it was the right fork. I won’t know until the end of the day if they changed their mind;)

Dinner last night, cooked by the Missouri couple, Mel and Michael was amazing. She is a Registered Dietitian, and he is an exceptional cook. His Father-in-Law, John told me how much Mel loves to cook, and it’s always good. Also, being experienced long distance hikers they understand the importance of quantity. There was plenty for all four of us, and really good:)

Sitting with us, but eating her own food, was a 25 year old German woman, with a very big emotional “stone.”  It was a heavy, memorable evening. 

Many things are similar on the PCT and the Camino, but there are some major differences. Showers each night on the Camino, versus sometimes going a couple of weeks between showers on the PCT is obvious. Not carrying near the weight on the Camino because of food along the way really helps. Sleeping in a bed each night, with electricity, and usually WiFi is different. 

Serious discussions are more common on the Camino. Certainly on the PCT when I got to know people, sometimes they would open up about tough times, or traumas, in their lives. It’s just more common here. So many people are dealing with heavy crap (or more like, carrying heavy stones). The reality that people have been dealing with carrying heavy stones on these Caminos for 1000+ years, and the albergues always have people in them, hits home. 

We’re all on this journey together. Sometimes the paths are different. I still don’t know the difference between a “Variant” and an “Alternate” path.  There are MANY different ways to get to Santiago. Sometimes the way there is easy to see, like the great signs in Galicia, sometimes there are no signs, or conflicting signs (the app shows going one way, the arrows on the ground the other, or, my favorite sign a yellow arrow AND a yellow X, one meaning go this way and the other meaning don’t go this way, on the same post). When an intersection like this happens, a person just has to wing it, kind of like what we have to do with life. 

Enough of my rambling. I’m done with my atun (tuna) sandwich, ready to hike on a warm sunny day. It seems like I will be able to make it to Santiago, or it’s immediate outskirts, tomorrow.

Buen Camino

Monastery

 

The Church and Albergue

I don’t know how to change this format, so it will be weird today;). A very productive day, that started out odd. My German hiking friends, Aaron and Sergio, and I have been staying at most of the same places since Ribadeo. I asked Aaron if they were taking the rural route, or the route with villages, coffee shops, and about 3 miles longer. He said the longer route, and he told me town they were going to stay in. That was the route to the left at a Tee intersection. I was quite a ways behind them when they got to the tee, but I could see they went to the right. I had decided after meeting a witch the other day I wasn’t going to do any rural routes alone. So I speeded up to stick close to the two Germans. Sergio looks intimidating, with lots of tattoos, even on his head, big lobe things in his earlobes etc. Looks don’t tell the story, he’s a very nice man. I wanted to be close to the intimidating looking guy. There was no hint of any witchcraft today:)

Language issues caused the misunderstanding. Aaron speaks no English, Sergio little, and, our charades and pointing game failed, but all ended well. 

Lots of road walking. A few times we had animals walking on the roads with/against us. 

Our goal for the day changed, we ended up in Sobrado de Monxes. We’re staying in an albergue attached to a very old, cool church. It’s a monastery. The monk, Lawrence, who showed me around was very fun. We were born within a month of each other, and joked old man humor. You know, prostate jokes. Unbelievably cheap, 8€. 

Then, the triple crown couple (Mel and Michael) and Mel’s dad, John from Missouri invited me to dinner they’re cooking tonight in the monastery kitchen. They all seem to have an interest in talking with someone in their native language. John and I walked and talked quite a while today too. He’s 70, and I eventually had to let him pull away because I couldn’t keep up. That man is in good shape. He had tried to run a marathon in all fifty states, he had to stop in the thirties, Mel has run marathons in 42 states. I’m out of my league with those guys. 

Things are expected to change drastically by the end of the day tomorrow. Three trails merge. I’m on the Camino Norte. It ties back in with the Camino Primitivo, and the all converge with the big Camino, the Camino Francés. The book says you go from seeing fifty pilgrims a day to seeing 500 per day. It’s supposed to be a zoo. 75% of the people who do the Camino de Santiago do the Camino Francés. This should be interesting, and, finding a bed to sleep in is a concern for everyone with the crowds on the Camino Francés this year. 

I’m writing this Tuesday night. There is a chance I will be in Santiago Thursday night:)!!

Sorry about not being able to figure out the format thing. I’m a technosaur. 

Buen Camino

101 km to Santiago

 

There were some beautifully built and maintained trails today:) Also, nice, rolling topography. Not jaw dropping beauty, but nice relaxing beauty. 

Some more monuments along the way where people are putting their stones.

When I crossed the autopista (interstate in our terms) and I saw greater than 500 km to San Sebastián it made me smile knowing I had walked all that, and more because the autopista is straight and the trail is not:).

The markers in Galicia indicate that I’m just over 100km to Santiago. That’s the first goal for this pilgrimage.  The I have another 87 km to get to Finisterre and the west end of the trail.  

If all goes as planned I’ll make Santiago on Friday.  Today’s plans didn’t go as I thought they would.  I just got tired and didn’t go as far as I had hoped, but still completed 18 miles. I’m in the town of Baamonde for the night.  

This is a huge albergue. Think of a warehouse with bunk beds.  I met an American man from Missouri about my age. He’s doing the Camino with his daughter and son-in-law.  The daughter and son-in-law (Mel and Michael) are serious hikers and have been in Etna, Seiad, and the area a few times.  They are triple crowners, PCT, AT, and CDT, and have interesting stories to tell.

I bought food to microwave for dinner. Every albergue is different. This one has a microwave, but no utensils.  I ate lasagna with my fingers, and a noodle shrimp dish with my fingers.  I felt like a caveman.  

A highlight came for me at 2:15 this morning.  I have learned to have my phone on silent in the evenings so as not to wake up everyone.  I was laying, awake, wishing I could sleep in the middle of the night and I heard my phone vibrate.  It was my 8 year old granddaughter texting me on her mother’s phone. A wonderful text.  I have never been so happy to be contacted in the middle of the night!!

Buen Camino

Meigas de Galicia

 

Not a lot of pictures today. The area wasn’t that picturesque after what I’ve seen the last month or so, just a lot of eucalyptus trees. I didn’t stop much to take pictures. 

The day started with me having little ambition. The Tres Hermanos left, so I had the whole place to myself. I was bummed I couldn’t get the dryer to work, so I would have to carry wet clothes on and in my pack. Finally I decided it was time to leave, just then the cleaner arrived. She knew how to fix the dryer. She climbed behind it and seemed to jiggle some wires and all was well. While my clothes dried I went out and had a small breakfast, the café was odd. I went back, got my clothes and headed out at about 11:00. I have been leaving before 7:00-8:00 every morning. 

There are two options for the stretch from Mondoñedo to Abadin/Gontán, about 10 miles. The most common option is the low route. There are a few small towns with café’s,  restaurants, and amenities along the way, it is relatively flat and easy. It’s a little longer than the high route. Almost everyone took the low route. I took the high route. 

The high route had a long uphill stretch which scared most away from it. It was a little shorter. The views were supposed to be better if clear, it was foggy most of the way so not a lot of views. 

When leaving Mondoñedo I immediately passed a woman about 50 years old who was walking a bit slow, and I saw a younger woman, I guessed about 18 (it turns out she’s 27) up ahead. She was a strong hiker. I learned later they’re both German, like most on this part  

When I hike a lot, I play little games. I wanted to see if I could pass the young one. I’m quicker than most on the downhills, but slow down more on the uphill. There was a downhill piece before the long uphill so I turned on the jets and caught her before the uphill began:). It’s easier to win races if the other person doesn’t realize it’s a race:).

The uphill climb was about three miles. She had trekking poles, so I could hear her clanking behind me when she would get close, and I would pull away. It was a silly game and went on for about an hour. There were no vehicles the entire way between the two towns. There were no other people, except for those two. For about an hour or more I had this uphill race from against this strong hiker who didn’t realize it was a race. I was getting a bit tired. Each time I slowed down I’d hear her poles clank, clank, clank. 

The road was a timber harvest road through a large stretch of managed eucalyptus stands. My mind was wandering and I was too oblivious to my surroundings.

Out of nowhere, standing above me on a skid trail to the left was a woman, dressed strangely, yelling and swinging her arms wildly at me.  Kimberly later told me she just appeared out of no where. After the last month or so I can understand a little bit of Spanish, but I couldn’t understand a word she was saying. I was absolutely stunned, and confused.  Just then the young woman I was racing arrived, and tried talking to her in excellent Spanish. My race opponent looked at me and told me, in perfect English, “she doesn’t speak Spanish, she speaks Gallego,” the local language of Galacia. 

They were dressed like the Gypsies I had seen in New Zealand, and in movies like The Way.

Things happened fast after Kimberly arrived.  A man came from behind a tree up to the yelling woman.  He talked with her, she stopped yelling, and they walked  off together.

My race opponent looked at me and said, “Do you know about the Witches of Galacia?  She’s a Witch!”  She quickly told me they believe in special rocks with powers, spells, and magic. By chance I did know a little something about the Meigas of Galicia, my friend had told me about them and I had read an article about them. Some times in past centuries they have not been nice to peregrinos.

Then she said, “We have to wait, Mom’s still behind.”  The older woman was her mom.  We waited, nervously, until her mom arrived and then all three of us took off.

We will never know for sure what was going on or why. Maybe she was just a crazy lady. Maybe the hiding guy behind the brush and trees was there for a nefarious reason? 

I was so glad Kimberly showed up when she did. She had been a high school foreign exchange student in Missoula, Montana, thus her solid English. She is a 27 year old psychologist who just had her honeymoon in Costa Rica in December.  I told her I went to Costa Rica on my daughter’s honeymoon…she and her mom thought that was funny.  

When we got to Abadin I made sure I was ahead of Kimberly.  I won the race:)

I went to the next hostel outside of Abadin for the night. I want a head start for tomorrow’s race.

Tres Hermanos

 

  

 

  

Random highlights:)

Immediately had an issue with not being able to cook a pizza because no oven the night before last. Lady working at albergue said no problem, talked to her husband, he was going to come, get pizza, take it home, cook it, and bring it back for me. I thought it was totally absurd so wouldn’t let them do it. 

At the grocery store the clerk dropped one of the apples I was buying and immediately sprinted back, got a replacement apple, and ran back. Actually RAN. Over the top service from everyone. 

Then, while hiking into a small town the young, friendly gal working there could not have been nicer.  She talked in Spanish a lot and I ended up staying longer, ordering seconds, and left that town full and happy. Fun to banter with. She told me this time of year is when there are a lot more Germans, probably because of their vacation times. Also, many have just started the trail for the part from here to Santiago. They will still get the certificate at the end, they only need to do 100 km, not 820 km. Right now I’m only about 150 km from Santiago.

I just spent the night in an awesome hostel, in a room with five beds, and only me.  When a group of three brothers came in she had them go upstairs, the manager had set me up in the handicap bed, downstairs, right next to the bathroom for easy access during the night. We had been joking, and I think I looked a little rough when I showed up:). 

Every single person I have met in Galicia has been fabulous. People are extremely nice. I was asked by someone back home if I was afraid here. I’m not afraid at all. It’s very safe. Before leaving I asked a woman from back home who had walked the Camino the same thing, is it safe. She said she would send her daughter (early twenties) here alone and not worry about it. I know now what she was talking about:)

The town of Ribadeo was picturesque. The hostel was right there when I crossed the bridge to enter Galacia, I didn’t have to look for it. 

But for me the best is how they’ve marked the trail!  They’ve put effort into these wonderful trail markers, and have them maintained well, and there are so many of them you can often see two at a time. There’s no need for any effort to navigate. I can just wander blissfully, not concentrate on anything about navigation, and know I’m heading the right way always. It really speeds things up by not having to look at phone navigation, or backtrack when you missed an obscure yellow spray painted arrow etc. 

The scenery is no longer coastal. Just rolling hills with farms and ranches and managed timber stands. Logging and ranching scenes everywhere. Houses kept up, (except the cool old-old ones). Little villages have a Norman Rockwell feel. 

It helped the weather was perfect:)

There was some walking along paved roads, but, it was  mostly dirt logging, ranching back roads with zero traffic. 

I’m trying to keep up on my laundry little by little consistently. The problem is socks drying. It takes them forever. Often two days on the backpack. My routine now is to wash underwear each night and let dry hanging on my backpack the next day. I’m a walking laundry drying rack. Very attractive:( I hope this works better heading inland with more sun and less humidity and fewer storms. 

I’m in great shape time wise now. I’m walking fast and long, reminiscent of some of the later PCT days. About 150 miles last week.

Feeling good. Legs are reasonably tired and sore, but not unexpected with how hard I’ve been walking. I’m usually eating four meals a day. Basically whenever I get to a small village or town with an open restaurant or café I eat. I carry energy bars and fruit for the trail. Hiker Hunger has definitely set in:).  For a while I was thinking I was losing weight. I had to tighten my belt one notch. On the PCT each notch was about a ten pound loss.  Now I think my weight is holding steady.

The Galicia Camino signs are so awesome because they give the distance to the Santiago Compostela down to the meter with each sign. I don’t know if that means to the property, the front door, the alter?  It’s pretty darn specific!  It is fun for figuring out how far and how fast one is traveling. They put a lot of effort into these, the other three provinces could learn from them;).  

I met, and chatted with, two brothers on the Camino today. They showed up at the same hostel after they couldn’t get into the albergue. They had another guy, their third brother. All conversations were in Spanish, they’re from Bilbao. There are ten brothers in their family! They are having a fun Camino:). Los Tres Hermanos:)

I am finally getting to understand the international road signs, but, I will actually study them first before I ever try driving in Europe. Not only are road signs confusing, just figuring out how to flush the toilet is confusing often. Push, pull, push a button on the wall?  No levers like are common at home. On that topic, bidets should be more common in America…just an opinion. 

I’m digressing…I’d better quit. 

But one more thing.  I’m really glad I’m here. The long stretches of quiet, thinking, calm, beauty, and seeing such kindness has been good for me.

Buen Camino:)

The Final Province-Galicia

A couple of pictures on top about the two breakfast comparisons I talked about before. One is the table full of leftovers from the sit down breakfast for about ten that was amazing. The next breakfast was a container of coffee and some rolls. 

There has been a lot of logging on this entire trip. I finally saw a lumber mill. 

Lot’s of beautiful rural countryside, and calm thinking and relaxing.

Finally I made it to the river which is the border between the provinces of Asturias and Galicia. The albergue was just past on the other side of the bridge in a wonderful setting. 

A nice view looking back at boats and the bay/ria from Ribadeo.

Interesting night. Mostly German spoken. 12 beds, all full. I had hiked in with three Germans two young guys and an older woman and got some of the last slots. Lots of confusion because of languages. I think Dutch and others were spoken too. I went grocery shopping with the German contingent, more confusion there. I’ll keep the story short, I had odd food for dinner and breakfast, and, people are very kind;).

This seemed to be the most challenging language setting this far for the trip. 

The older woman, Alicia, indicated she knew me. She did the thing with two fingers to her eyes, and then pointed them at me. I thought that was “I’ve got my eyes on you” kind of signal. She meant it as “I’ve seen you before.” I didn’t remember, and we were having the complete language challenge. Finally, she got out her Credencial from the very first day of the Camino a month ago in Irún, and sure enough we started the same day!  There were about 40 people in that albergue a month ago, my memory isn’t that good.  How could she have remembered me? 

I’m making steady progress  Ribadeo signals the end of following the coast. From here the trail goes inland, in a southwest direction, toward Santiago.