Sometimes a nero feels like a zero. The nero day in Chester and being able to do laundry, clean-up, re-supply, visit with friends, and relax was one of those days...a nero that felt like a zero.
A fellow thru-hiker had discussed on the hike the need to warn unwitting trail angels about the "backpack explosion." It's a perfect description of what happens when the hiker and the pack hit civilization. Theresa experienced the backpack explosion at Lone Pine. Debbie and John experienced it at Twin Lakes. I warned Tom ahead of time and he was very patient as the pack exploded, spread out, and was put back together.
Back on the trail the vast difference between the granite dominated Sierras and the volcanic dominated Lassen country became obvious. Sharp rocks as opposed to jagged, rugged rocks, vegetation changes, etc.
This portion of trail contained many road crossings, and connections with the outside world at the crossings. Highway 36, Drakesbad, Old Station, trail angels, Hat Creek Rim View Area, and Cassel/Burney all seemed to come in rapid succession. This would be the antithesis of the experience in the High Sierras.
Three consecutive days had trail magic. In the Sierras there were more than three weeks with no trail magic.
On the trail in this area it was almost exclusively thru-hikers. There were few day hikers, there was no John Muir Trail and no Tahoe Rim Trail, so the number of people was way less. Maybe only crazy thru-hikers would tackle the dry, desert like Hat Creek Rim when on one side was the beautiful Burney Falls and on the other side was Lassen Park and the Caribou Wilderness. If I only had a weekend day or two I know where I would hike, and it wouldn't be the rim.
The number of miles I could hike in a day, and on consecutive days, certainly increased. Being in better shape helped, and gentler terrain and good trails made a huge difference as well.
July 10-Thursday-Highway 36 to Drakesbad
Tom picked up Moxie, Firecracker, and Tidy Camper at a hotel in Chester and we headed north toward Lassen National Park.
My "clown shoes" had seen better days. They had been ripping for a while and rocks and sand were getting inside regularly. Also, with the lava dominated sharp rocks, the soles weren't providing the protection the bottoms of my sore feet needed. Theresa had replacement shoes for me, I just had to make it a few more days for the shoes to arrive.
Firecracker, Moxie, and Tidy Camper
The bubbling, smelly, Boiling Lake is fascinating evidence of the volcanic activity in Lassen Park.
Some of the Drakesbad Resort in Lassen National Park is on the far side of the meadow. The resort serves meals, and has a hot spring. The pool from the hot spring feels great! If there was simply a hot spring at the end of each day of hiking I'm sure my muscles would feel much better.
At Drakesbad they serve the normal guests first, and hikers afterward. Also, they ask you to congregate away from the guests. It's absolutely the feel of being a second class citizen. It makes sense though, hikers stink, and the real customers pay good money for their Drakesbad experience.
I had a delicious meal at the resort and got two more miles in before calling it a night. Those two miles were important because they were uphill miles. Getting those two miles out of the way meant the next day could be a big mileage day.
July 11-Friday-Perfect Hiking Day
An historic back country Ranger's cabin in Lassen National Park.
There had been a recent fire in Lassen National Park and the adjacent Lassen National Forest, the Reading Fire. Much of the landscape for the day was impacted by that event.
It had the potential to be hot because of the burn. The cloud cover and mist however made for perfect hiking. The trail was in good shape, level, or slightly downhill for most of the day. I had taken care of the uphill stretch the night before, so I was able to get in a big mile day. It felt great.
A few pictures of Lassen Peak
The boundary on the north of Lassen National Park.
The Pop Up Trail Angels showed up on a side road south of Old Station. The guy was Jerry Can, and the gal was The Chef. And wow, was she a great chef. In their little trailer she made delectable Emu Chili Tacos. Never before had I ever heard if Emu Chili Tacos. They were incredible.
After Old Station I made it up to the Hat Creek Rim where Tom and I had stashed a couple gallons of water on Wednesday. It worked perfectly. For the climb up to the rim I didn't have to carry much water. There was plenty of water for dinner (and Saturdays breakfast) and to fill up for the slog across the Hat Creek Rim.
This was about a 27 mile day, one of my best mileage days yet on the trail, and the most positive PCT miles in any single day. The day in the Sierras, when I went off trail to Vermillion Valley Resort for food, I hiked a total of 28 miles, but only 20 were on the PCT.
July 12-Saturday-The Dreaded Hat Creek Rim
Along this desolate stretch of trail, at a remote gravel road crossing, was much appreciated trail magic. Coppertone, a 2007 PCT thru-hiker from Minnesota, was giving out root beer floats from his camper! He has done this other places along the trail, but obviously I had missed those. Because of the circumstances this was the best root beer float I have ever had. Coopertone's plan was to go up the trail with one more stop near Crater Lake in Oregon dispensing floats and then head back to Minnesota. There are so many amazing and unique people in the trail community.
The Hat Creek Rim is a reminder of the desert environments of Southern California. It's hot and dry.
The sharp lava rocks were tough on the feet.
There was a water cache along this stretch, but it wasn't much. I had enough water so I didn't need to dip into the cache.
My friends Peter and Georgia Wright picked me up on a very quiet road outside the community if Cassel. We went to Burney for a good meal and a hotel.
When checking in at the hotel I asked about AARP or AAA discounts. The clerke said yes, ten percent, and she needed to see a card. I don't carry my entire wallet on the hike. As I was explaining I didn't have my AARP or AAA cards because I was hiking the PCT she said "PCT hikers get a 15 percent
discount." What a pleasant surprise.
July 13-Sunday-Slack Pack
Peter and I got an early start for an eight mile slack pack trip to the crossing of Highway 299.
The fish hatchery along the trail was the first water along the trail for quite a while. What a nice change from the Hat Creek Rim.
Just past the hatchery my wife, Theresa, and my daughter Ashley came to join Peter and me for a couple of miles. It was the first time I have seen Ashley pregnant. She looked great!
Peter was Ashley's fourth grade teacher.
Georgia and Theresa combined food and drinks for semi-spontaneous trail magic at the Hwy 299 crossing. My hiker friends who just happened by at this time were surprised and thrilled, because there was plenty of food for everyone.
My friend from Japan, Mr. Cup, was a big hit. He refers to Theresa as "Honorable Tortuga Wife," with a formal hands together, bow/greeting. I think Honorable Tortuga Wife is enamored with the cute Mr. Cup. She is thinking of giving up her "Bat Shit Crazy Mama" trail name in favor of "Honorable Tortuga Wife"..NOT!!
Peter and I hiked eight more miles to the outskirts of Burney Falls State Park.
After our day we went back to the hotel in Burney, resupplied, repacked, and relaxed. Theresa and Ashley headed home. The Wrights and I stayed. This is the plush way to hike, eating real food, spending time hiking and visiting with friends and family, and sleeping evenings in hotels! I'm spoiled.
This piece of trail ends on the edge of Burney Falls State Park, mile 1422. At the end of 15 weeks (105 days) I'm still averaging slightly less than the desired 100 mile/ week. I need to get to 100/miles per week to have a chance to beat the snow in Northern Washington and Canada. This week I hiked 133 miles which helps me get more on track.
