Saturday, August 30, 2014

Trout Lake to Goat Rocks



August 30-Saturday-Incredible Nero Assist

The family all needed to resupply. At one point the plan was to hitch in to the small hamlet of Trout Lake, pick up packages, do a little grocery shopping, stay at a motel to clean up, and, of course, eat.  Then we ran into the reality that this was Labor Day weekend. There were no rooms in Trout Lake. A storm was in the forecast. I mentioned I had some friends in Washington, and called Dick Eastlick who I have known for decades from Etna where he used to live. At the drop of a hat he came to the rescue. 

My regular breakfast on the trail is four oatmeal packets. That didn't fill me up. This was a six packet morning. Prior to being on the trail two packets was plenty for breakfast, some things have changed, my appetite is one. 

I don't know much about the geography of Washington. Dick's address is Monroe, Washington, which meant nothing to me. After he agreed to meet my trail family and me at the trail and Forest Road 23 I gleefully told my new kin we had a ride to a town with a hotel, and good shopping. Then one asked how far away Dick lived. I had no idea. The next time I had service, I checked. It was a five hour drive from Dick's house to our pickup spot!

Dick was at the pick up spot at 11:00, Saturday morning, as planned. It was an easy five mile hike for the family for the day.  A perfect nero. This was my shortest day since the end of the seven day zero, August 7th. Dick had driven over Friday night and camped to be sure he could get us. When we told him our shock at his drive he acted as if it were nothing. What an incredible friend. 





He drove us to Hood River, Oregon (the nearest town with vacant rooms) for a night in a nice hotel, plenty of food, and clean up. It was what I needed to recoup. 
The Columbia Gorge Hotel is a historic landmark, and gorgeous.  Calvin Coolidge, FDR, and Rudy Valentino have stayed there. And now, The Family has stayed there. It's safe to say we didn't look like the regular clientele. 

Dick brought along a new pair of shoes Theresa had sent. The last pair lasted about 800 miles, from Burney, California. I had to move up another half size, to a size 12. Feet definitely swell when hiking this much, I started the hike at size 10 1/2. A couple of black toenails (not caused by dirt) are a hint a new, larger, size is needed. Ibuprofen and sleeping with ones feet propped up on a pack only help so much with swelling. 

My mind was on Ashley's baby shower. I heard it was a big success. The Boling brothers (Ashley's uncles) brought over freshly caught salmon for the festivities.  If I would have made it down I wonder how much salmon I could have eaten? 


August 31-Sunday-Silliness


Pretending to hold up this overhanging rock. 


When I had my picture taken from below the overhanging rock, I then fell off the trail cutbank and onto the trail. I landed on my backpack, bruising only my ego (and maybe my sleeping bag:)).   Princess laughed.  


The huckleberries were perfectly ripe.  What a treat.  I have become a purple fingered huckleberry fan. 


I'm not the first person to lose pant legs from hiking pants. Princess had to get new hiking pants because she had lost a single pant leg.


The view from my tent, toward Firecracker and Tidy Camper's tent, with Mount Adams in the background. 


It became quite cold during the day, but there was no precipitation. It felt like it could snow. Apparently my new wardrobe has some humorous qualities. My family would just look at me and laugh.  There are no fashion rules on the trail. 

I hadn't seen Arizona since the Sierras. He got off the trail in Chester and had taken a class. When the class was done he went up to Canada and headed southbound. It was a great reunion on the trail, as most knew him. He flip flopped and will finish the trail in Chester. His hope is the fires in Northern California  won't hamper his progress when he gets through with Washington and Oregon. 

I met another southbound flip flopper, Twice. We hadn't met, but he knew of me and he knew Bat S*** Crazy Mama. Theresa had given him a ride in to Wrightwood about four months ago.  With all the people she's helped I'm convinced she knows more hikers on the trail than me. 

At the end of 22 weeks I am at 2250 miles. Finally I'm at better than a 100 mile/week pace. It's been a long time getting to this place. It seems highly likely I will be able to finish the hike before the end of September, even moving at a slower pace in Washington. 


September 1-Monday-A Surprise Morning View

It was a cold night. Some frost was on plants. It wasn't a hard freeze, but cold enough I was glad to have my underarmor, gloves, and puffy down jacket.  If I would have had pant legs I would have worn them. 

We had been waiting the night before for the clouds to clear so we could get a decent picture of Mount Adams, with mixed results. I told Princess to put in an order for clear skies, she was working on it. Clouds were gone in the morning, Princess did her job!  What we hadn't had the chance to see due to the clouds the day before was another mountain to the north. I noticed it through the trees while breaking camp. Before we left camp I walked out about 200 feet and was greeted by an amazing view of Mount Ranier. 


It looked as if floating on a cloud. 


I went back and grabbed the others and we all marveled.  What a special morning. 


A look back at Mount Adams from the north with Tidy Camper in the foreground.  


Mount Ranier in the background. 


I had heard of the beautiful Goat Rocks Wilderness over the years. Now the chance to see it for myself. 


The Goat Rocks on the horizon. 

A 23 mile day that took most of the day. I took a nap in the middle of the day. With some elevation gain we're now about 6500 feet. The climb may have sapped some energy from me. Two weeks ago 23 miles would have been easy. This was not easy. 

Washington

The speedy trip through Oregon seems to have taken its toll. Slow, heavy, sore, and challenging were the feelings for the start of Washington. 

When I try to whine about the little aches and pains of the trail, I remind myself of the differences between what I go through, and what the campers at The Painted Turtle go through. 

My aches and pains are voluntary and self imposed, and they will go away soon. The young people who go to The Painted Turtle have their conditions completely involuntarily, and the conditions are chronic, they won't be going away. Nobody would choose to have to deal with Hemophylia, or Crohn's, colitis, or major kidney or liver problems, or any of the other diagnoses that bring campers to The Painted Turtle.  The camp provides the chance for them to go where their diagnosis is normal. They can have fun, and be with others who truly do understand what they are dealing with.  There's more than a little fun there, there's a lot of fun. 

The Painted Turtle is a fabulous camp with a special purpose. It allows campers to have a camp experience, and not be limited by a chronic condition.  Theresa and I were introduced to the camp by our daughter, Kari, and our son-in-law, Colin. We have all been touched by the camp. It truly is a special place. 

The smiles of the campers are huge, genuine, and needed. Just being part of this makes volunteers feel great too. It truly is a magical place. 

Thank you to all who have already donated to The Painted Turtle!  Your generosity and support are awesome!  
Many have planned to give a penny or two, or more, per mile when I'm done...I'm getting closer...start digging in that penny jar. 

There are two goals for this hike, to complete the 2650+ mile hike, and to raise $5000 for The Painted Turtle. I'm just over 80% through the hike, and just over 40% of the way to the fund raising goal with your donations of more than $2100!!!  You are awesome, or in camp speak, "YES, YES, YES!!!"


August 26- Tuesday-The Climb

The lowest point on trail is 140 feet above sea level at the Bridge of the Gods. Immediately after crossing this bridge a major climb started. The Oregon portion of the PCT didn't have any climbs like this. The climb out of the Columbia River is reminiscent of the climbs out of the Klamath River, the Sacramento River, the Feather River, and the Yolo River in California.

Shorter uphill stretches of trail are easier now. I certainly move slower going uphill, but can maintain a steady pace. The long, continuous uphills take different mind games. I estimate how long it will take to get to the top, such as six hours, then break it into four pieces. I only allow myself breaks every hour and a half. I just slow down when I get tired. An exception is allowed for switchbacks, they're generally steeper. I take a breather break at every left hand turn on switchbacks. 

Another goofy game I played, when I was going for big mile days, was to see how long I could before taking my first break in the morning. My personal best was five hours, and I often made it four and a half hours. This allowed for up to 13 miles by 10:00 a.m..

Countless other mind games go on while hiking. Figuring how many steps per mile is simple in flat ground, but the calibrating it for steepness and cruddy trails has helped to wile the time. 

It is good timing for blackberries and huckleberries. It's nice to just be able to pick and eat food that's not carried. Purple fingers and slower hikes are casualties of this activity.

The blisters are much better now.  Hiking is so much better without them. 

I was finally hiking with someone else again, kind of. The Oregon hard push wore me out. It's common for me to hike slow uphill, but I was especially slow on the hot south facing slopes with a heavy pack. Most folks were resupplying at Trout Lake so didn't have quite the load. Double Tap was the only other one I talked with doing the stretch all the way to Whites Pass without resupplying. I did not keep up with the family. I finally met up at the designated spot, but not until 9:30, an hour after dark



The impressive Bridge of the Gods spans the Columbia River. 


Officially in Washington. 


Mr. Sandals back on the trail again after the road walk over the Bridge of the Gods. 


August 27-Wednesday-Day 150 German Television?

This made 150 days since I started this journey. It has been everything I hoped for. I've met new friends, learned new skills, seen new places, and am in better shape than I've been in years. Canada is in the crosshairs, less than a month away, if all goes well. 


Trout Creek


A nice part of the trail. It was flat here, which was not typical so far for Washington.  But, typical so far for Washington, it was loaded with trees, with a lush understory. There weren't many views to be seen due to the green tunnel. 



Wind River


It doesn't get more random than this!  Princess and Mr. Sandals had told us a TV crew from a national German station would be meeting us at the Panther Creek Campground. As could have been predicted, Princess, Mr. Sandals, Firecracker, and Tidy Camper beat me by quite a bit, about an hour and a half. With a heavy pack, and having pushed hard for so long, I had continued trouble keeping up. The conventional wisdom was Washington would be more difficult hiking than Oregon. That had been absolutely true so far. 

The interviews were basically over, and they were just filming the goofy banter, and the next day's planning, around the picnic table when I showed up. A woman from the show saw me hovering and asked if I would join in. 

There were nine of us, five from the family, and four with the German TV station. Seven of the nine spoke or understood German, I wasn't one of the seven.  I had little to add to the conversation. "Ich bin ein Berliner" is about all I know in German, and I couldn't figure out how to slip that phrase into the conversation. 

Princess had told them about our family, so the crew showed up with food and drinks for all of us!  They filmed us. I was filthy and tired, all I did was eat a marvelous cold hamburger and French fries. 

The show is a news magazine the equivalent of a German Nightline. Unbeknownst to me they had interviewed Princess and Mr. Sandals already earlier in the hike at Kennedy Meadows (South).  The crew was also following some other German PCT hikers, but logistics made reconnecting with Princess and Mr. Sandals in Washington work best.

The most fun was the banter and teasing after the TV crew left. They have a couple more stops before they head back to Washington DC, where they are stationed. They should have stayed for an impressive musical performance, and a hatchet throwing experience. The "after" jocularity certainly would have survived any cutting room floor. 

Random happenings have occurred on the trail, but this one will be hard to beat!  

Twenty-one tough miles.  For the first time in a while I was done hiking before dark. 


August 28-Thursday-Another Climb, This Time Up From Wind River


After leaving Cascade Locks, and the Columbia River gorge a couple days ago there was quite a climb, then a descent to the Wind River, and Panther Creek Campground. We were back down to 940 feet elevation. Subsequently, the morning consisted of eight miles of uphill to get out of the Wind River canyon. It was challenging, but allowed for a nice view back south, at Mt Hood, where I was just a few days before. 


Toward the north was another mountain. Mount Adams dominated the skyline looking that direction.  Mount Adams is the second highest mountain in Washington, topped only by Mount Ranier. 


Some little ponds, similar to the ones Father Hotshot called "mosquito breeding grounds" were along the way. It appears the pesky mosquito season must have passed, or they've all moved to Oregon. 



Grassy meadows are so rare, one deserved a picture. 
 
"A place for everything, and everything in its place" is not a motto that has followed me through life. However, on the hike this is a necessity. It had served me well, up until this point on the hike. My pant legs belong on my legs. 

The day ended with me realizing I had no pants legs. My hiking pants are made so the bottoms unzip, and the long pants become shorts. I had just been using the shorts for the last two days. It got cold and windy in the evening and I went to zip on my pants legs, but I must have left them somewhere. My timing is impeccable, snow is in the forecast not far north from here. It's August!  Snow can't really be in the forecast...can it? 

The sound of the wind howling when in a tent is great, especially when inside a warm sleeping bag.

Camping for the night at Blue Lake, mile 2213.

August 29-Friday-Firecracker is Crazy


Blue Lake, where we camped the previous evening. 


The family taking a break on the trail. 


Mr. Sandals with Mount Adams in the background. 


Lunch break was at a trailhead. After being there for a while a family showed up from a four day backpacking trip. They generously shared food and stories with us. It was a great impromptu gathering. They didn't have any wasted food to take home at the end of our visit. There was some serious "Yogiing" taking place:)




What possessed Firecracker to do a handstand with her head between these logs?  I don't think the move would be OSHA approved. 


Brilliant serviceberries along the trail. 

A storm appears on the horizon. It felt all day like a storm, but there were only a few drops. 

Nineteen miles closer to Canada. 

Mile 2233, near Trout Lake, Washington. 

Monday, August 25, 2014

Goodbye to Oregon

The trail in Oregon has come to an end. Some memories of Oregon include:

   -Rain
   -Mosquitoes
   -Lightening, Fires, Rain
   -Mosquitoes
   -30+ mile days (six)
   -Solo Camping
   -Mosquitoes
   -Chasing (and finally catching) trail family
   -Support on trail by Theresa and Jim & Nancy Zanotti
   -Gentle terrain (mostly) and good trails (mostly, with exception by Mackenzie Pass)
   -Hiking with a Priest
   -Mosquitoes
   -428 miles in 18 days after my seven day zero

I wanted to get through Oregon by the end of August to have a good chance of finishing the hike before snow hits in Northern Washington this fall. Finishing August 25, after taking a seven day zero, was thrilling. Even more thrilling was meeting back up with my trail family in Cascade Locks. 

August 24-Sunday-Mount Hood

Theresa had my resupply. This was good because it meant I had enough food to last me the next 195 miles. This was bad because I had to carry that much weight. The pack seemed especially heavy leaving Timberline Lodge. The weight reminded me of what was necessary to carry heading in to the Sierras. In addition to lots of food, and some water, I had added back my cold weather gear for Washington. Underarmor, gloves, balaclava, more raingear, and a sleeping bag liner are now back in the pack, adding weight. 

Theresa was playing doctor in the parking lot at the lodge. She bandaged up my blister, then she went into her athletic training mode and taped up Teddy Rose to try to make her able to finish the trail. She used a combination of athletic tape and duct tape to do an elaborate foot/ankle wrap. She learned this skill nearly forty years ago in college and it's still coming in handy. 


Mount Hood is a spectacular mountain. 





More Mount Hood pictures 


There were balloons at the crossing of the Sandy River. Just two weeks ago, August 13, a day hiker lost his life here during a storm and very high water.  Many others were stranded as a bridge washed out.  It was so low as we crossed we didn't even get our feet wet.  It was eerie. There were fresh signs up warning of the hazards, but the hazard was gone with the good weather. 


The Animal walks in front of Ramona Falls. He works on nuclear submarines when he's not hiking. He's an exception to the typical age found on the trail. At thirty-nine years old he doesn't fit into the twenty something cohort, nor does he fit into the fifty/sixty cohort. In math terms, he's an outlier. 

Because I got a late start, mostly resupplying, eating, and visiting with Theresa, I was happy to get in 14 miles for the day. They were an important 14 miles. It was an uphill grind to get out of the way so Monday would be more successful. 

I went to sleep almost exactly 4/5 the way through the hike. 


August 25-Monday-Motivational Text-The Last 30 Mile Day (I Hope)

There weren't many hikers at all on the morning bit of trail. Only three hikers until about 4:00 in the afternoon. One section hiker, and then Possum and Almost Awesome! This couple from Tennessee I had met in the Sierras and figured to never see again as they are young and especially fast. They had to get off the trail and go back to Tennessee for about three weeks to take care of Possum's mom who had become very sick. Sometimes real life has a way of getting in the way of trail life. It was great to visit with them again. 

I took the Altermate PCT, Eagle Creek Loop, to see an incredible series of waterfalls, and especially Tunnel Falls. It was a beautiful loop. This section of trail is not open for horses so it can't be part of the primary PCT, and can only be shown as a hiker only alternate. 

A text message came through with news that Princess and Mr. Sandals were still in Cascade Locks, and wouldn't be leaving until the morning of the 26th! This meant if I hustled, and did a 33 mile day, I could finally tie in with my trail family. It had been July 31st when we were last together. 

The text sent loose a flood of emotion. The hard push to catch up for the last 18 days was going to finally come to an end. For the rest of the trail I will be able to hike rational days, about twenty miles, and take regular zeroes. I will be hiking with friends. 

Also, a text came in today from Me Too. He had planned more for his hike than anyone. More physical problems had hit him than imaginable, and he kept on going, determined to finish. He had made it as far as Cascade Locks, and had to leave the trail for the season. His girlfriend is having major heart problems and will require emergency surgery. Again, sometimes real life gets in the way of trail life. 

Usually when a thirty mile day was in order I would get a very early start, such as 5:00 or 5:15. I hadn't got a particularly quick beginning, hitting the trail at 7:00. 



Some serious blasting had to take place to build trail into this solid rock. 




These two pictures show the tunnel that goes behind the waterfall at Tunnel Falls.  This was one of the more unique and wonderful bits of trail yet. 


The reunion with my trail family was glorious!  By the time I made it to Cascade Locks it was dark, almost 9:00. Wonderfully, Princess had ordered pizza and soda for me. 

At one point I was considering getting off the trail for a couple of days to go to my daughter, Ashley's, baby shower once I made it to Cascade Locks. The logistics and timing just didn't work out so continuing the trail made more sense. This new plan means I won't need to hustle for days, or even a week, to catch up again. 

At Cascade Locks, Oregon, mile 2155.  Getting ready to hike over the Bridge of the Gods, crossing the Columbia River, to Washington in the morning!