OH CANADA!!!!!!

September 21-Sunday-Easy Nero

Theresa had quite the adventure as I had hiked from Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass. She wouldn't give a hint as to what she was up to. A quick trip to Montana was in order for her. A "quick trip to Montana" is an oxymoron.  She was able to visit with many friends in a short time. She predicted I would be jealous, she was right. 

Pokemon, Georgia, Bat S*** Crazy Mama, and I went out to breakfast and did last minute chores before heading up to Rainy Pass. The connection worked well with the other hikers. 

Soon after starting we hit the 2600 mile point. Being at Rainy Pass with Highway 20, a major road, and a weekend, meant 

many day hikers the first part of the hike. 

Princess and Mr. Sandals do a little routine each hundred miles. This was a lot of fun. I don't know any German and apparently when I try they think it's comical. What fun!

More unique mushrooms keep popping up. 

The day started in the trees, but shortly after views opened up. 

Alpine larch, a deciduous conifer, was present throughout this area. The vegetation changes on the entire hike have been fabulous. So many times my mind went back to college dendrology and botany classes from so long ago. If only a person could remember all they had learned. 

Fifty miles to Canada. It was not just counting down the number of days, it was now figuring out how many hours of hiking until completion. 

Talks of post hike plans abound. 

The weather is cooperating. On this day last year it was an actual blizzard. Today it was shorts weather. Rain is in the forecast for Wednesday, the planned completion date. That isn't frightening anyone. 

Spirits are high. 

Day 175. 

At mile 2611, near Methow Pass. 12 mile nero. 

September 22-Monday-Meeting Finishers

Because it was a starry night I didn't put up a rain fly. The mosquito netting was all I slept under. There was no rain for Monday, 20% chance for Tuesday, and 50% for Wednesday in the last forecast. 

I woke up to rain splashing on my face. It was very effective in getting me to hustle getting my gear together and proceeding on the trail. 

For those not entering Canada, once they get to the monument marking the border they immediately head back south.  I saw Green Card, Midway, Masshole, and another thru-hiker who knew Theresa well due to the rides she had provided in Southern California. 

It was especially nice to reconnect with Midway. For quite a while from the Sierras until Old Station we would make regular contact, but I hadn't seen him since then, about 1200 miles ago. 

Seeing and congratulating all the thru-hikers finishing made the impending completion more concrete. I almost certainly will never see them again as they are scattering everywhere. This bizarre annual gathering of eclectic, determined, stinky, northbound, masochists was about to come to an end. I'm so ready for it to be done because of the discomfort of my legs and feet. Yet, I'm sad it is coming to an end. I didn't realize how beautiful Northern Washington would be, rivaling the Sierras, and I'm going to miss my trail friends. 

A mountain lion had the folks in this camp concerned so they left this warning note. I had no plans of camping there anyway. 

Again, hiking into the night. 

Another sign that we are getting even closer to the end. 

I'm hiking slowest, but Teddy Rose is hiking slow due to her ankles, and Tidy Camper's feet/ankles are hurting too, slowing her down. For the bodies of many of us the end of this hike will not be a bad thing. 

There were stars out, the rain from earlier was gone, or so I thought. I cowboy camped, for about 20 minutes. Washington is unique, I was looking at stars and being rained on at the same time. I quickly put up my tent AND rain fly. 

At mile 2634.  A 23 mile day. 

September 23-Tuesday-Getting Excited-Getting Rain-Great Views-Going Slow

What a great time of year to be in the Pasayten Wlderness with the golden alpine larch and the brilliant red of the huckleberries contributing to the fall color pallet.

It rained off and on all day.  My legs and feet were ready to be done with this hike. I've thought if this hike were one hundred miles longer I could probably gut it out, if it were two hundred miles further I would have to seriously reconsider. Luckily, it's not that much more. 

It took the entire day, daylight until after dark, just to make it twenty miles. The number of finishers who were heading southbound and back to Hart's Pass and Rainy Pass contributed to my slow pace. Captain, Dozen, Peanut, two Israelies, JT and Smiles, and others.  These were hikers who didn't get paperwork done to enter Canada. One described it as the "victory walk" for them. It was great to visit with all of them for one last time. Reminiscing and commiserating abounded. Folks will be heading back all around the US and the world.  It was bittersweet to see and visit with them. It was sad to know I will likely never see any of them again. 

At midday I was exhausted and sleepy. When driving if I were so tired I would pull over and nap. Why not nap along the trail one last time when the rain subsided?  So, I did. 

The rain started really picking up as I finally pulled into camp after dark. There was no thought of cowboy camping or just having a mosquito netting. 

The last night on the trail, cooking and getting everything together from inside the tent, made me realize how lucky I was to not be in my bivy sack. Once I ate, and was comfortably in my sleeping bag listening to the hard rain, the thoughts rushed in about the hike ending.  

September 24-Wednesday-CANADA

Day 178. 

It was still raining quite hard in the early morning. I ate and took care of everything possible from inside the tent. Then, with a speed unimaginable months before, I folded up the tent and got on the trail quickly. The plan was whoever was in the lead would stop one-half mile from the border and wait, so the five of us could cross the border together. I assumed they would catch me, but not this day.

The rain filled much of the trail with water, but couldn't dampen my spirit. 

Adrenaline does great things. I couldn't feel the pain due to the excitement. As I waited for the others 1/2 mile from the border, I made a celebratory cup of coffee. As I sipped on the warm brew Tidy Camper and Firecracker walked up and I heated water for them as we waited for Mr. Sandals and Princess.

This was a special time. This was why I pushed so hard to get through Oregon. I did not want to get to the finish alone or with strangers. The only thing that could have been better is if Glitter and Moxie could be with us.  Glitter is back at work in Seattle, and Moxie is just a few days back. 

Then it was time for the five of us to walk together to the finish. 

Elation! Tears! And a lot of pictures. 2660 miles, and a bucket list item completed. It was emotional...and wonderful!!!!!! A long term challenging goal completed. 

Then eight miles more hiking in Canada heading north to the trailhead. 

And more celebration at the trailhead where Theresa waited. She was there at the beginning, the middle and the end. She's driven way more miles than I hiked, 5,762 miles. 

I'm glad to have undertaken this hike because of the people I met, the places I was able to see, and even because I'm in better shape than most other 58 year olds. But, I'm glad it's over. My body is tired. 

Bat S*** Crazy Mama is ready to turn back to Theresa. Most people doing this hike have support of some sort, but the support I received from BSCM was such that could become legendary. I'm glad Mike Rainville gave me the name Tortuga when he did, because my name may have been Spoiled Rotten, or something like that, if not. 

Thank you Bat S*** Crazy Mama. She keeps referring to what I will have to do to pay her back for what she has done, this could be a long pay back!

So many of you have helped I need time to remember you all. From opening up your homes, to sending notes of encouragement at just the right time, following the blog, donating to The Painted Turtle, to driving to rescue and resupply, you all are the best. The hope is to thank each and every one, and the fear is that I'll forget someone. THANK YOU!!  I have such fabulous friends and family!!

What comes next?  

The hiking goal is done, now I'll be asking those who pledged a penny or two per mile to please make their contributions to the Painted Turtle. I'm thrilled with how many have had the chance to learn about The Painted Turtle, and who have already donated. The total has exceeded $2,600 and the donations are still coming. Thank you so much!  The Painted Turtle is simply a wonderful place with good people doing the right things. Theresa and I look forward to volunteering there more often now that we're both retired. 

This isn't the last blog. When I get home and have some time (and find someone who can teach me how) I will add some of the videos I took along the way. I will update fundraising efforts, add some of Mr. Sandals and Tidy Camper's photographs and/or videos, try to thank all the people who made this adventure possible, update the status of my impending grandfatherhood, and give information for my next adventure starting November 20. 

On November 20th I will head to Africa with my middle daughter Staci (Hotshot). We will start in Kenya, at the Indian Ocean, and she will hike the entire way to Tanzania and then climb Mount Kilimanjaro. I will provide support along the hike, hike through many of the Kenyan National Parks, then climb Mount Kilimanjaro with her. This should take about two months, after which I will head back to Etna, and Staci will head to Uganda to do some incredible kayaking. That blog address will be hiketoclimb.com

I hope to have the next blog up in three or four weeks. Thank you all for your support. 

At mile 2668-Manning Park, British Columbia, Canada

Feeling Good---The End Is Near

The reality that this long hike will soon be coming to an end is starting to set in. The wonder and joy of it, as well as the pain and frustrations of it, will soon be just coins in the memory bank. 

These three days were so much easier than the three before that it makes pleasant reflection possible. When one is miserable from hiking, it's hard to think positively about the last six months. Conversely, when the trail miles are kind, the views great, and the body is not creaking, the good thoughts flow. The spigot has been turned on. 

The conventional wisdom is that the worst is behind us. The crazy up and down stretches are now to the south. It is time to enjoy what we are about to finish. 

It's amazing what a few good days will do. 

September 17-Wednesday-This Was The Hard One?

Mice had been there during the night. Again, only Mr. Sandals suffered from the attack. This time they got his shoelaces:). I don't know what Mr. Sandals did to anger the mouse gods, but they are unkind to him. 

As I prepared for the week, this was the day I was dreading the most. The continuous, long uphill pull out of the Suiattle River looked like another of the big, nasty ones. It appeared as another Feather River, Yuba River, Sacramento River, Klamath River, and Columbua River. 

I saved most of the special chocolate "Cowboy Bark" Firecracker and Tidy Camper had given me just for extra energy for the climb. I ate the treat and enjoyed it. It certainly didn't hurt with the climb. 

The three days before this had been so brutal, especially Tuesday, that it wasn't as if I were heading into this pull feeling fresh. Additionally, I wanted to get in a few extra miles so I would have a chance to meet Pokemon and Theresa as planned on Friday. 

To make it work would require an early start. I had been hiking exceptionally slow, and the only hope of completing 22 miles would be with an early start and a full day. I got on the trail at 5:20. 

The first ten miles of the day were downhill, so the idea was to pick up quick miles early. I had not counted on the reality of extremely limited trail maintenance for obviously a long time on this portion of trail. Massive logs crossed the trail repeatedly. Climbing over them was often impossible, so climbing way up, or way down, steep slopes just to continue was commonplace. I was a bit discouraged by the time I got down to the Suiattle River. 

The downhill was supposed to be the easy part, and then about ten miles of uphill was ahead. What I failed to know was all the next (uphill) section was maintained. There were virtually no logs blocking the way on the uphill section. Also, the tread of the trail was ideal, there were very few roots or rocks to impede progress. The hike was actually on soil. Finally, while it was uphill, it wasn't extreme. A gentle uphill is easy to get a rhythm on, and is easy on the body. 

It was certainly climbing, about 5000 feet, but it was not the "hard one" I had been fearing. It was much easier than the previous three days. 

Halfmile working on his photography skills. 

Putting it all together I was able to get 22 miles. Halfmile and I camped a few miles ahead of the rest of the family. 

When we got to the camp there was another tent set up. As I was cooking I heard snoring from the tent.  The next morning I still heard snoring from that tent while leaving camp for the trail. Whoever was in that tent had a great night's sleep that made me envious. 

September 18-Thursday-An Unplanned Visit to Stehekin and Lake Chelan. 

With another early start the miles clicked away. 

There were mushrooms aplenty. 

Morning rains didn't hamper hiking. By 12:30 I had made great progress, and even taken a short nap next to the trail when the rains subsided. 

I was shocked when Princess walked up the trail. If anyone, I had expected Halfmile. 

Princess told me the bus to Stehekin (11 mile ride) left at 3:00, and they were hurrying to get there because the next bus wasn't until 6:15. The race was on. It would mean 16 miles by 3:00, but with my good start that was possible.  Mr. Sandals, Firecracker, and Tidy Camper were right behind Princess. 

Are the trees getting bigger, or am I getting skinnier?  Maybe both. The belt is now over another notch. That makes three notches for the hike. When I was at two notches I had lost twenty pounds. My guess is I haven't lost thirty pounds, but probably well over twenty pounds. I'll only know for sure after checking on the scale at home. 

In this quick walking time I came up with a scheme. If I could ride the bus in to Skehekin, and quickly get a ride back to the trail, maybe I could get some real food and check out Lake Chelan as a possible future vacation destination. The only catch was being able to get back to the trail and putting in eight more miles after the diversion. 

Everything worked perfectly!  I got to the trailhead with the bus waiting at about five minutes before 3:00. The return bus from Stehekin, on the shores of Lake Chelan, headed back for the trailhead at 5:30. I would be back on the trail by a little after 6:00 p.m..  

On the way to Stehekin the bus dropped off Princess, Mr. Sandals, Firecracker, and Tidy Camper at the cabins where they will spend the next two nights. The 19th was their zero day. All of them are looking forward to this break, but especially Princess. By having an early arrival Thursday, a zero Friday, and an easy nero on Saturday, everyone will be refreshed and ready to go for a final push to the border. 

My schedule is different. On Saturday I will zero, and meet back with everyone on Sunday, the 21st, at Rainy Pass. 

After dropping them off the bus stopped at the much lauded bakery. We were only given five minutes. I rushed in and got two scoops of ice cream, a huge cinnamon roll, a scone, and a cup of coffee to go. I made the time limit and had plenty to eat on the rest of the bus ride in to town. 

In the very small town, really a hamlet, I got a necessary permit, then took a shower!  That shower absolutely made the diversion worth the effort and the one dollar. There was time left over so I made it to the restaurant and had a hamburger, fries, and soda. It was time to load up and go back to the trailhead. The food was consumed in the nick of time. 

Stehekin, and Lake Chelan, had the feel of a fjord. Six years ago I had the chance to visit Milford Sound on the South Island of New Zealand. This place reminded me of Milford Sound. I loved it. 

A lot of food, a shower, and the chance to see a unique and perfect vacation spot, all in just three hours off the trail. Things could not have worked out better. There was only one detail left...those last eight miles. 

I hiked as fast as I could.

It was pretty, you'll have to take my word for it. There wasn't time for pictures. This snapshot is the only documentation of the evening hike. 

The headlamp went on about 7:30, and I made it to camp at 9:00. This made four nights of the last five I made it in to camp well after dark. This was becoming a habit, and necessary with sunset coming so early. 

What a great day. Twenty-four miles, an unexpected shower, and town food!  A thru-hiker couldn't couldn't ask for anything more.  I plan to return to Stehekin at some future date when I can slow down my pace and spend more time enjoying this amazing place.

September 19-Friday-Pokemon, Bat S*** Crazy Mama, and a Nero

This footbridge felt less than secure. 

Bat S***Crazy Mama and Pokemon joined me on the trail!  

Bat S*** Crazy Mama, the ultimate supporter. 

I said goodbye to Halfmile. He won't be zeroing so will finish ahead of the rest of us. He is so knowledgable about the trail, and such a kind, gentle, and unassuming person. The work he has done with his app, with no pay, has afforded him near rockstar status on the trail. When he walked up to the trailhead near Stehekin a group of ten or so hikers there realized who he was and gave him an ovation. Since he wasn't going in to Stehekin one of the folks gave him a pastry from the bakery. 

When we were zeroing near Stevens Pass a trail angel realized who he was and got his picture taken with him. Halfmile is embarrassed by the attention, and just continues to update his app making it even better and more up to date. I'm so glad to have met so many new friends on the hike, including Halfmile and Deb (Stayin' Afloat). Deb hiked in and met Halfmile like Pokemon and Theresa hiked in to meet me. 

Pokemon enjoying the view. 

An easy 11 mile nero and then to a fabulous home. The view from the deck was great. 

We made it to the retreat home of Pokemon's daughter and son-in-law not far from Rainy Pass.  Wow!

What a place to nero. This could not contrast more from the night in Southern California sleeping behind an abandoned business full of broken glass during the San Jacinto re-route. That night I felt like a homeless guy trying to avoid detection.  What a difference. 

At mile 2599, Rainy Pass, preparing for the last resupply.  Winthrop, Washington has an absolutely wonderful homemade  ice cream establishment. With repeated visits to that store my belt loops could change back. 

September 20-Saturday-Zero

While we were zeroing the architect, professional photographer, and others came to begin the two day photo shoot of the home. Their shots will be light years better than mine. The place is fantastic. 

Georgia had more food ready than I could eat. It was incredible that Pokemon and Georgia came up from Etna for support and just a short visit, but It was great!

The home even featured an outdoor shower, perfect for a thru-hiker to use before even considering entering such a nice place. 

The relaxation was just what was needed for my legs, and especially for my feet. What a great zero. 

The Final Exam

Another thru-hiker described this section as "The Final Exam."  The professor stayed up late, and was wicked, writing up this test. 

Up and down steep with lots of obstacles, repeat with a vengeance. 

A few items slowed me down. The abundance of huckleberries kept screaming "eat me!"  No matter how many times I told myself to walk past the temptation, a patch of the plump treat would show up and I would be forced to stop and snack. The recurring left heel blister issue slowed me down. Finally the cumulative effect of the hike, overall fatigue, caught up with me. The result was very long days. Combining the above elements with "The Final Exam," and even with early starts every night I came into camp well after everyone else, and long after dark. 

September 14-Sunday-Leaving Stevens Pass

I didn't sleep well in the motel. What an odd scenario when rest comes so much easier in a sleeping bag and in a tent than in the comfort of a bed. Other hikers have mentioned the same experience. 

The first few miles out of Stevens Pass the trail had many day hikers. The nice weather, a weekend day, and being near enough to the greater Seattle area made this area popular. 

Once away from the day hikers it became significantly more serene. It also helped that we've moved ahead of the bubble of thru-hikers. 

It was nice to get above the thick forest to get views. 

The pack was heavy with a fresh resupply of six days of food. To alleviate the weight issue I decided to cut down on my water weight. To this end I decided not to carry any water. There were so many water sources in this part of Washington this was not a problem. It would have been a good idea to have quit carrying water altogether a while ago. 

Three tough climbs made this 22 mile day feel like much more. The challenging day brought me in to camp after dark. I had found a sock on the trail, it had fallen off Firecracker's pack. She was glad it was found. 

Since there are no mosquitoes in Washington (others would argue that fact) and no sign of rain, I decided to cowboy camp. Not messing with a tent saves time, and energy. I hadn't cowboy camped for a long, long time and it was nice. The tent is good, but I love looking up at the stars at night. 

At the end of 24 weeks, at mile 2498. 

September 15-Monday-Mice

The day started slowly, with only six miles in the first six hours. Early in the day I passed the 2500 mile point on the hike. It was yet another reminder that the end of this trek is approaching. 

This doe didn't want to leave the trail. She just stared at me and kept snacking.

Great views of Glacier Peak and Mount Baker appeared in the north throughout the day. The last peak at Mount Ranier as a fading reminder was to the south. It seems so long ago when Mount Ranier stunned us with its majesty for the first time from the base of Mount Adams. 

When Lake Sally Ann appeared at midday I was exhausted, still not recovered from the previous day. I cooked lunch, then pulled out the ground cloth and took a nap. The length of the nap will never be known, but was not short. Rip Van Winkle comes to mind. 

I talked with Leonitus later, he had taken a nap there too. There were beautiful views, a perfect temperature, and flat spots. 

Reflection Pond seemed appropriately named. 

At one point a hoary marmot charged around a bend in the trail toward me. When he saw me I'm not sure who was the most startled. He succeeded in getting off the trail first. He was off by the time I landed from my jump. I really enjoy the pika and marmot sounds when hiking. 

Cowboy camping worked the night before, so I did it again. Again I arrived at camp well after dark. While cooking dinner I was visited by a mouse. 

As I was about asleep something scampered across my chest, undoubtably my dinner guest. If I wouldn't have been so exhausted I would have set up my tent. Like yesterday this was an exhausting day, even if it was only 21 miles.

At a previous camp a mouse ate a hole in Mr. Sandals' water bladder. Nobody in our group has had a problem with them eating food. It seems mice are more common in the Washington portion of the trail than before. 

What a hard part of the test. 

September 16-Tuesday-Brutality

Another very early start on the trail. I need more hours to get the miles in than the others. 

This picture is taken in the early morning so is hard to see, but the comparison of the size of my pack and the size of this log bears notice. The thought of attacking this with a two person crosscut saw seems unimaginable. Maybe that's why it hasn't been done. The enormity of the log clearing needs here let's me appreciate all the hard work done elsewhere on the trail. 

I am not a fan of repeated logs across the trail. 

During this break Princess said, "Let's just quit."  We could just hike back to Stevens Pass and call Bat S*** Crazy Mama to come get us and drive us to Manning Park, British Columbia. There we could hike south eight miles to the monument and take some pictures. It was preposterous, and led to a fun interchange. 

A couple on the trail had posted their picture at the monument from the end of the trail. At the time we all marveled at how quickly they had finished. Later we learned they had gone off trail, rented a car, done short hikes at some spots, and then hiked into the monument. A conclusion was maybe that couple had done the right thing. We were all so miserable, and they were now really comfortable. 

The proposal lightened the air. Everyone in this group would drag themselves over the finish if needed. 

After testing both bright pink and florescent orange duct tape, actually Duck Tape, it is obvious the orange tape has significantly greater sticking power. I hope to wear flip flops for a week when this hike is done to let my heel heal. Repeated blisters, under callouses, are not fun. 

The fungi are plentiful and fascinating. 

This had to be the hardest day of the exam.  There was 8000 feet of climbing. I was so slow and worn out. Switchbacks were endless. Again, only about 21 miles, but they were brutal miles. 

It appeared that the next day would be tough again, but after that the rest of the way to Canada would be sane. 

At about mile 2540.