After taking the unplanned zero day due to the heavy rains December 2nd, this was supposed to be the day to get things together for the stretch through Tsavo East National Park.
As the day started we went into Voi and tried to get more money. Staci was allowed to, I wasn't. Frustrating. Staci was able to buy a tradional African skirt called a leso, pronounced lace-oh.
This hornbill was a highlight of the day, as we waited for yet another meeting with KWS staff.
The visits to Kenyon Wildlife Services KWS) to line up the Rangers to replace Samson and Saleem did not go well. The KWS said we couldn't hike in the park! Staci had done her research, and even had the email from KWS from six months ago assuring her it was okay. We kept getting bounced around, finally to the top. The answer was "no." The guy who sent the email was lower ranking, and in fact was from Tsavo West and shouldn't have been speaking for Tsavo East.
Staci was seething.
In the evening Staci came up with optional reroutes. One dilemma existed. If Tsavo West National Park followed the example of Tsavo East, the only way to achieve the continuous footpath would be to backtrack considerably and hike in to, and through Tanzania.
It meant another zero day ahead. An unexpected three day zero is hard to live with.
DECEMBER 4-Solutions
This Masai allowed me to take his picture. We are now moving more in to the Masai territory and are seeing more.
Changing the route to the south, through a community wildlife protection area, can get Staci to an entrance gate at Tsavo West with seven days of hiking. A contact Tony made, a visit by Madame Mercy (an acquaintance of Tony's) and a few calls solved the re-route of Tsavo East dilemma. A two hour drive north to the headquarters of Tsavo West National Park was next on the agenda. That went better than expected. It is absolutely okay for her to hike through that park, as long as she pays fees and with Ranger accompaniment.
It was time for the two hour trip back to Voi, and meeting again with Tsavo East KWS to get their Rangers to walk with Staci for the stretch from Mackinnon Road to the West Tsavo gate. After our less than satisfactory visits yesterday, there was trepidation.
This was along the road on much of the way from Tsavo West NP to Voi. The most expensive project the Kenyan government history has ever undertaken is the building of this high speed railroad from Nairobi to Mombasa. It is being funded, and engineered etc by China. It is a massive undertaking. The train will carry cars, freight, and passengers. The two lane main artery now is woefully inadequate.
The visit to KWS Tsavo East this time worked out great. They would have Rangers at the Mackinnon Road station at 9:00 a.m. December 5, ready to hike. Staci needs to be putting in miles, or kilometers, or she will go stir crazy.
We stayed at Madam Mercy's compound along the way to Mackinnon Road. She has a sort of orphanage, unwed mothers, women's assistance place. This was right next door. It was up on a rise and afforded quite a view.
