Tony, our support driver through Kenya, dropped us off in Arusha, Tanzania and headed back to his home in Diani Beach. It became clear it was too expensive to have him constantly on standby. Our planning for Tanzania was going to be different.
We had been led to believe Tanzania was less prosperous than Kenya. Slights about Tanzania were common. We really had low expectations for what resources would be available. This led to us being incredibly pleasantly surprised.
The four hour drive from the border to Arusha the 22nd was our first clue things were different here than in Kenya. Tony had talked of the bad drivers. In fact, the drivers seemed considerably safer here. They drove at reasonable speeds, passed when safe, and were considerate.
Once in Tanzania there were virtually no more mud huts. Houses were more sturdy appearing. There wasn't quite as much traffic, and almost all vehicles appeared road worthy. There were fewer piki-pikis (motorcycles). Motorcyclists even wore helmets. Tanzania had a nice feel to it.
Our lodging was nice, and reasonably priced. It will be our home base for much of our time in Tanzania. We were looking forward to how this crucial planning day would proceed. We found, after a few hiccups, a company who comprehended our needs. They connected us with Immanuel, our guide for the next six day hiking stretch. Staci and I feel positive about him working out.
There were key items we hoped to purchase which were problematic before. We found them. Our camping stoves now function. We found some hiking food we could easily cook. We were very excited to find Knorr Pasta Sides, many varieties, at the grocery store. This was a staple on the PCT, and we could survive on those alone. They only cost the equivalent of 75 cents a meal.
Most importantly, Staci found cross trainers (shoes) for the next stretch of the hike.
Other miscellaneous purchases filled out the day. The day was productive. There is a solid plan/itinerary, and the likelihood of success feels high.
We're having to adjust to the Tanzanian currency. A Tanzanian shilling (Tsh) isn't worth a lot. At the ATM the maximum withdrawal is 400,000 Tsh. The largest bills are 10,000 Tsh. So a trip to the ATM means forty 10,000 Tsh bills. In U.S. dollars that's about $200. It still seems odd when the dinner bill comes and it's over 48,000 shillings. But when I realized it was an incredible meal for two for less than $30, I felt much better.
The two of us were able to walk on the streets here and feel safe. We walked about a mile, in town, without being escorted. That may not sound like much, but it felt so liberating.
To top off a wonderful day of preparations, the hotel was equipped with WiFi. We were able to FaceTime with family and friends back home for the first time this trip.
Our original concerns about Tanzania were unfounded. Now to see if it continues as we hike through some very small, out of the way, places.
Taking care of so many details on the 23rd meant we could have relaxing days for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day before hitting the trail again December 26 with Immanuel.
DECEMBER 24-Christmas Eve
This was supposed to be a relaxing day. It was. I finished the book I'd been reading. We both took naps. Some packing and organizing gear was in order.
The only physical thing we did today was walk about a mile to a bookstore and pick up some new books. It was so nice to have a simple task like that actually be a simple task.
We had a special dinner at the hotel. We were joined by Wim, a Belgian who just summitted Mount Kilimanjaro the previous day. He used the same route we'll be taking so we peppered him with questions for quite a while. We were also joined by a couple, Travis and Mandy, from Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. They were about Staci's age, and a lot of fun. They gave Staci and I a package of beef jerky as a Christmas present, because they overheard us telling Wim that we hadn't found any in Africa. What a kind gesture.
It was an odd Christmas Eve for all, but we made it a fun celebration.
DECEMBER 25-Unique and Wonderful Christmas
The day started with a FaceTime chat with my son-in-law Colin and my daughter Kari. Their Christmas present was the gender reveal for their baby due in May. They will be having a baby girl! What exciting news.
A short FaceTime with Theresa also made for a nice Christmas.
We had breakfast with Mandy and Travis, and later Wim joined us. The previous night Wim related his inability to eat while climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, and he had some summer sausage left over. We went to his room, as he had offered it to us. When we got there, he had much more. He had lots of quality backpacking meals, cheese, nuts, and other food. He didn't want any money for it, but we knew how valuable it was, and paid him some. This was so very helpful, not just for Kilimanjaro, but for the upcoming hike and for climbing Mount Meru. The relief we feel at having quality food for the rest of the trip almost brought tears of joy.
He had taken a lot of food up that mountain, and back down.
The amazing Christmas collection.
At the top were cards Ashley gave us to open today. Also shown is the jerky Mandy and Travis gave us. The bulk of this is the food from Wim. It was a unique Christmas, and absolutely okay.
Baboo is going to have another granddaughter!
Merry Christmas.
