These three days were so much easier than the three before that it makes pleasant reflection possible. When one is miserable from hiking, it's hard to think positively about the last six months. Conversely, when the trail miles are kind, the views great, and the body is not creaking, the good thoughts flow. The spigot has been turned on.
The conventional wisdom is that the worst is behind us. The crazy up and down stretches are now to the south. It is time to enjoy what we are about to finish.
It's amazing what a few good days will do.
September 17-Wednesday-This Was The Hard One?
Mice had been there during the night. Again, only Mr. Sandals suffered from the attack. This time they got his shoelaces:). I don't know what Mr. Sandals did to anger the mouse gods, but they are unkind to him.
As I prepared for the week, this was the day I was dreading the most. The continuous, long uphill pull out of the Suiattle River looked like another of the big, nasty ones. It appeared as another Feather River, Yuba River, Sacramento River, Klamath River, and Columbua River.
I saved most of the special chocolate "Cowboy Bark" Firecracker and Tidy Camper had given me just for extra energy for the climb. I ate the treat and enjoyed it. It certainly didn't hurt with the climb.
The three days before this had been so brutal, especially Tuesday, that it wasn't as if I were heading into this pull feeling fresh. Additionally, I wanted to get in a few extra miles so I would have a chance to meet Pokemon and Theresa as planned on Friday.
To make it work would require an early start. I had been hiking exceptionally slow, and the only hope of completing 22 miles would be with an early start and a full day. I got on the trail at 5:20.
The first ten miles of the day were downhill, so the idea was to pick up quick miles early. I had not counted on the reality of extremely limited trail maintenance for obviously a long time on this portion of trail. Massive logs crossed the trail repeatedly. Climbing over them was often impossible, so climbing way up, or way down, steep slopes just to continue was commonplace. I was a bit discouraged by the time I got down to the Suiattle River.
The downhill was supposed to be the easy part, and then about ten miles of uphill was ahead. What I failed to know was all the next (uphill) section was maintained. There were virtually no logs blocking the way on the uphill section. Also, the tread of the trail was ideal, there were very few roots or rocks to impede progress. The hike was actually on soil. Finally, while it was uphill, it wasn't extreme. A gentle uphill is easy to get a rhythm on, and is easy on the body.
Halfmile working on his photography skills.
Putting it all together I was able to get 22 miles. Halfmile and I camped a few miles ahead of the rest of the family.
When we got to the camp there was another tent set up. As I was cooking I heard snoring from the tent. The next morning I still heard snoring from that tent while leaving camp for the trail. Whoever was in that tent had a great night's sleep that made me envious.
September 18-Thursday-An Unplanned Visit to Stehekin and Lake Chelan.
With another early start the miles clicked away.
There were mushrooms aplenty.
Morning rains didn't hamper hiking. By 12:30 I had made great progress, and even taken a short nap next to the trail when the rains subsided.
I was shocked when Princess walked up the trail. If anyone, I had expected Halfmile.
Princess told me the bus to Stehekin (11 mile ride) left at 3:00, and they were hurrying to get there because the next bus wasn't until 6:15. The race was on. It would mean 16 miles by 3:00, but with my good start that was possible. Mr. Sandals, Firecracker, and Tidy Camper were right behind Princess.
Are the trees getting bigger, or am I getting skinnier? Maybe both. The belt is now over another notch. That makes three notches for the hike. When I was at two notches I had lost twenty pounds. My guess is I haven't lost thirty pounds, but probably well over twenty pounds. I'll only know for sure after checking on the scale at home.
In this quick walking time I came up with a scheme. If I could ride the bus in to Skehekin, and quickly get a ride back to the trail, maybe I could get some real food and check out Lake Chelan as a possible future vacation destination. The only catch was being able to get back to the trail and putting in eight more miles after the diversion.
Everything worked perfectly! I got to the trailhead with the bus waiting at about five minutes before 3:00. The return bus from Stehekin, on the shores of Lake Chelan, headed back for the trailhead at 5:30. I would be back on the trail by a little after 6:00 p.m..
On the way to Stehekin the bus dropped off Princess, Mr. Sandals, Firecracker, and Tidy Camper at the cabins where they will spend the next two nights. The 19th was their zero day. All of them are looking forward to this break, but especially Princess. By having an early arrival Thursday, a zero Friday, and an easy nero on Saturday, everyone will be refreshed and ready to go for a final push to the border.
My schedule is different. On Saturday I will zero, and meet back with everyone on Sunday, the 21st, at Rainy Pass.
After dropping them off the bus stopped at the much lauded bakery. We were only given five minutes. I rushed in and got two scoops of ice cream, a huge cinnamon roll, a scone, and a cup of coffee to go. I made the time limit and had plenty to eat on the rest of the bus ride in to town.
In the very small town, really a hamlet, I got a necessary permit, then took a shower! That shower absolutely made the diversion worth the effort and the one dollar. There was time left over so I made it to the restaurant and had a hamburger, fries, and soda. It was time to load up and go back to the trailhead. The food was consumed in the nick of time.
Stehekin, and Lake Chelan, had the feel of a fjord. Six years ago I had the chance to visit Milford Sound on the South Island of New Zealand. This place reminded me of Milford Sound. I loved it.
A lot of food, a shower, and the chance to see a unique and perfect vacation spot, all in just three hours off the trail. Things could not have worked out better. There was only one detail left...those last eight miles.
I hiked as fast as I could.
It was pretty, you'll have to take my word for it. There wasn't time for pictures. This snapshot is the only documentation of the evening hike.
The headlamp went on about 7:30, and I made it to camp at 9:00. This made four nights of the last five I made it in to camp well after dark. This was becoming a habit, and necessary with sunset coming so early.
What a great day. Twenty-four miles, an unexpected shower, and town food! A thru-hiker couldn't couldn't ask for anything more. I plan to return to Stehekin at some future date when I can slow down my pace and spend more time enjoying this amazing place.
September 19-Friday-Pokemon, Bat S*** Crazy Mama, and a Nero
This footbridge felt less than secure.
Bat S***Crazy Mama and Pokemon joined me on the trail!
Bat S*** Crazy Mama, the ultimate supporter.
I said goodbye to Halfmile. He won't be zeroing so will finish ahead of the rest of us. He is so knowledgable about the trail, and such a kind, gentle, and unassuming person. The work he has done with his app, with no pay, has afforded him near rockstar status on the trail. When he walked up to the trailhead near Stehekin a group of ten or so hikers there realized who he was and gave him an ovation. Since he wasn't going in to Stehekin one of the folks gave him a pastry from the bakery.
When we were zeroing near Stevens Pass a trail angel realized who he was and got his picture taken with him. Halfmile is embarrassed by the attention, and just continues to update his app making it even better and more up to date. I'm so glad to have met so many new friends on the hike, including Halfmile and Deb (Stayin' Afloat). Deb hiked in and met Halfmile like Pokemon and Theresa hiked in to meet me.
Pokemon enjoying the view.
An easy 11 mile nero and then to a fabulous home. The view from the deck was great.
We made it to the retreat home of Pokemon's daughter and son-in-law not far from Rainy Pass. Wow!
What a place to nero. This could not contrast more from the night in Southern California sleeping behind an abandoned business full of broken glass during the San Jacinto re-route. That night I felt like a homeless guy trying to avoid detection. What a difference.
At mile 2599, Rainy Pass, preparing for the last resupply. Winthrop, Washington has an absolutely wonderful homemade ice cream establishment. With repeated visits to that store my belt loops could change back.
September 20-Saturday-Zero
While we were zeroing the architect, professional photographer, and others came to begin the two day photo shoot of the home. Their shots will be light years better than mine. The place is fantastic.
Georgia had more food ready than I could eat. It was incredible that Pokemon and Georgia came up from Etna for support and just a short visit, but It was great!
The home even featured an outdoor shower, perfect for a thru-hiker to use before even considering entering such a nice place.
The relaxation was just what was needed for my legs, and especially for my feet. What a great zero.
