There was a church built in the year 600 on the trail today. I tried to get in, getting the key from a helper in an adjacent kitchen/building next to the church. It seemed for a bit one of the keys would work, but they didn’t. It needs some repairs, but was impressive. I did get a stamp from that church for my pilgrimage passport.
I met up with my 73 year old friend, Peter, on the trail today. It was a fun reunion:). I’m reminded of my Etna friend, Peter, who joined me for 100 miles of my PCT adventure. Both are people who are older than me, work to stay in great physical shape, and keep going strong.
I’ve been hiking mostly with my 27 year old Russian/Holland friend, Gleb. He split off today to do a side trail with some incredible scenery. I didn’t have the energy to get off the main trail. I’m glad I didn’t. I was tired enough by the time I got to the albergue in Deba. I didn’t arrive in time I had to use the backup registration process. Gleb arrived after me, exhausted too.
He’s more of a food connoisseur than I. I’m eating fancier stuff such as octopus, squid, the Spanish style ham of this region which is really good, and quite a few things that I’m not sure what they were. My Spanish (nor the Basque language) isn’t as good as it should be. I don’t know what I had for dinner, even though I ordered it. The plate was piled high, and it was inexpensive, that’s all that mattered. This area is apparently known for it’s cheesecake. I know what that is, and it’s good!
This albergue has about 80 beds, and it’s full. I ran into a pilgrim at this albergue who I stayed with at the private hostel my second night. He’s probably in his late twenties, and works with at-risk teenagers in Switzerland. There were only three guys in the room at that hostel. And he ate at my table. The most emotional night of this pilgrimage so far involved him.
After we had dinner, after I pulled the Roses, Thorns, Daffodils, and Buds idea to ease awkward tension just the four pilgrims remained at the table. A middle aged German woman suggested another “game.” On a scale of ten, rate how you feel physically then mentally, about today. Then, if you want, tell why. The two German women and I did ours. When it came to him, he gave his numbers, then sobbed.
It was really good to see him.
A fun experience happened on the trail. I haven’t been meeting any Americans on the trail, and was lamenting that fact. Walking down the trail/small road two Asian women were standing. The older one (older than me!) said hello (that was a hint) and asked where I was from. She was excited when I said America. She’s from San Francisco. In the conversation she asked my name, I said “Ken Harris” and she and her daughter started laughing hysterically. Her first name is Ma. Her last name is Harris. I met Ma Harris on the trail.
I’m averaging about 15 miles a day, and it’s challenging. Nine years ago I was able to do 20 mile days relatively easily and even did five or six thirty mile days while hiking the PCT. Those days are done. Training for this I did seven days of ten plus miles. It wasn’t enough. From experience I know that with time the muscles will stop hurting. It would be nice if time would speed up.
I lost my right hearing aide today. I need to find a way to tie hearing aides to my head.
Buen Camino
