When I arrived at the bus station, there was no one at the booth to help. There were, however, about 20 other pilgrims with the same problem. All the seats are sold out for the day for all six buses from Finisterre to Santiago Compostela. Not only that, but the first five buses for Tuesday were already sold out. I checked last night, there were only three seats left on the 3:00 p.m. (last) bus. I bought an 11€ ticket as a backup plan. I was worried about getting stuck.
I was ready to leave Finisterre, and was ready to move on. About this time a six passenger minivan taxi pulls up. I heard the price, quickly realized splitting it a bunch of ways was a great deal, and before the other folks realized what happened we had the six passengers for the minivan. The only problem is he had to leave immediately to do another run, and he would be back in 1 1/2 hours. We all agreed to sit down together, eat breakfast, and have coffee. We were all in such good moods, we became immediate best friends, with some language hiccups;) The Italian couple, about my age just spoke Italian, and thus understood a fair amount of Spanish, two German women in their 20’s, one had taken high school English, a Surgeon from Australia, and me.
The Taxi Driver showed up and we had an easy trip to Santiago where the Australian and I had lunch. We talked about the famous swinging incense scenario at the cathedral. He had the chance to see it on a previous trip. I really wanted to see it. His understanding was it was only special occasions, and Tuesdays. I decided then, if I had to wait an extra day to see it, I would. After lunch we talked to a cathedral guard who said he was wrong about Tuesdays. We wouldn’t be able to see it. I was bummed.
He took off, and I decided to spend ten euros and do the big cathedral tour. I had shortchanged myself being cheap my first time through Santiago. It was great, seeing all kinds of art, learning about the history of the construction, the first cathedral was built in the 1000’s, a second bigger one was built in the 1200’s etc. Amazing stuff. It was fun to look down at the people looking like ants in the square. I still don’t understand baroque versus Romantic architecture periods etc, but it was cool anyway. The tour leader was talking about the big incense ball, and she told me they would be using it at the 7:30 pm mass tonight! I found out where to sit for the best view, and I was to get there at least an hour early because it was going to be packed. She was right. I got there two hours early, and people were already in their seats. The ones who got there only an hour early were standing.
I hadn’t been to a Catholic mass in at least 15 years, and nothing like this. The organ music, singing, blessings to the pilgrims, almost all in Spanish of course, were awesome. The experience was great. The organ could be felt through the entire body. The ball (I guess it’s called a thurible) was fabulous. It takes eight men pulling on the ropes in unison to make it swing. It’s art in motion! I heard this is a World Heritage Site. It’s appropriate!
I’ve changed my plans due to the busing situation. I have a train ticket for tomorrow morning. I’ll be heading to Porto, Portugal. There’s a very short layover in Vigo on the way. The guy selling me the tickets, and his supervisor, both warned me I have to RUN from one train to the next to make the switch work. It sounds like a challenge, I’m ready for it:).
No Albergue tonight, I’m staying at the closest hotel to the train station.
It’s been great, but, I’m getting anxious to get home:) This makes day 40.
